Larger waves, typically during storms, are responsible for the removal of sediment from the coast and its conveyance out into relatively deep water. Generally, small waves cause sediment-usually sand-to be transported toward the coast and to become deposited on the beach. Larger waves can move cobbles and rock material as large as boulders. Even small waves that are only a few tens of centimetres high can pick up sand as they reach the shore. The larger the wave, the deeper the water in which this process takes place and the larger the particle that can be moved. Waves interact with the ocean bottom as they travel into shallow water as a result, they cause sediment to become temporarily suspended and available for movement by coastal currents. Waves vary considerably in size over time at any given location and also vary markedly from place to place. The most obvious of all coastal processes is the continual motion of the waves moving toward the beach. Other factors that significantly affect coastal morphology are climate and gravity. The most prominent of these processes involves waves and the currents that they generate, along with tides. The landforms that develop and persist along the coast are the result of a combination of processes acting upon the sediments and rocks present in the coastal zone. Factors and forces in the formation of coastal features It should be noted, however, that each of the two major landform types may occur on any given reach of coast. In fact, the overall nature of any coast may be described in terms of one or the other of these categories.
The coastal environment of the world is made up of a wide variety of landforms manifested in a spectrum of sizes and shapes ranging from gently sloping beaches to high cliffs, yet coastal landforms are best considered in two broad categories: erosional and depositional.
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